Friday, June 13, 2008
Monsoon missing in Kovalam (suspected to have absconded to Mumbai)
I must admit that I am getting a bit tired of waiting for the rumoured monsoon which has yet to put in much of an appearance. These photos seem to indicate that the prophesied event is soon to arrive but in fact we have had only about 30 minutes of hard, steady rain happening over the space of several days (although there was one night in May where it just pelted down for hours). I don't seem to be acclimatizing very successfully although I am finding sleeping much easier. There was some unseasonal rain in March this year (which apparently ticked off the tourists here then to no end) and so perhaps the monsoon won't be coming at all this year or in perhaps in a very abbreviated form. I live in hope however, of days of cooling rain, some really wonderful fierce storms and raging winds.
A Kovalam landmark - Vizhinjam Lighthouse
Built in May 1972 the lighthouse has only been open for visitors for the past few years. I don't know what the second beach at Kovalam was called before it was built – maybe 'No Lighthouse Beach.' I was very impressed to see on this visit that in 2007 a solar panel was installed that is helping to power (or perhaps completely powering? Hard to know) the lighthouse's bulb.
As you can see in this bottom up view getting to the top is a workout – especially the last six feet which are up a steep nautical-type ladder. Note to ladies – wear pants or, if wearing a skirt, make sure no one is close
behind you during your final push to the top.
The views from the lighthouse are spectacular. Looking south to Vizhinjam – which will in the future be the location of a deep water harbour – you can see the mosque and, in the second photo, peeking up from the carpet of palms, the pink towers of the Our Lady of the Voyage church. I'll be doing a blog entry on Vizhinjam in the future.
Looking north you see Lighthouse Beach and the outcropping of rock that separates the two beaches. On the backside (not visible) of the last outcropping is the Leela hotel. The last photo is not of the lighthouse at all but of a sandcastle perhaps inspired by it.
Flowers of the Leela
The real flowers of Leela are the staff but I haven't had a chance to catch them on camera yet (or get their stories). But it's not surprising that such a beautiful hotel has colourful and well kept grounds and so here – with excuses for not knowing their names (either popular or botanical) are the tropical flowers of the Leela.
There is one photo that is not of a flower but of a fruit which Joy tells me is actually served as a vegetable.
Sunday, June 01, 2008
The Lovely Leela
The Leela Kempinski Kovalam Beach is simply a gorgeous hotel. When I came here in the 90s this property on the headlands between two beaches (be sure to check out the Leela's website to see aerial photos that I obviously am unable to get without a helicopter!) was home to a dumpy, Kerala State Tourism hotel where you had to go to change travelers' cheques. Then for a short while it was a Le Meridien. I'm not sure when the Leela group took it over but it is nothing short of spectacular now.
As a non-guest I don't have access to what are probably some of the hotels best features – apparently there are two other swimming pools in addition to the infinity pool that adjoins The Terrace restaurant (below).
And while up at the Leela for tea the other day with a newly made Brit friend (Martha) we looked down enviously at a massive outdoor seating area with candles, huge clay pots (probably at least 5 feet tall) filled with greenery and comfy couches that I hadn't realized was there. This outdoor area is the dining and drinking area for the club rooms shown in the far left of the previous picture.
This picture shows the view to the north from the terrace.
What makes the Leela extra special is the beautiful décor and construction of the building and the uniquely Kerala touches. Mosaics are found on the floor of The Terrace and the lobby.
A carved wall plaque (not sure if it is wood or stone) features birds and flowers.
The lobby is light and airy with a stunning flower arrangement that changes daily.
The vast iron pots in the sunken seating areas are full of rose petals and art with exuberant colours decorates the walls.
I think this painting of a Kathikali dancer is just magnificent.
And just to prove that I've actually been inside here's me in what is probably an antique mirror.
Elephants are everywhere both inside and out.
A lovely Ganesh has pride of place to the right of the main door.
Rooms at the Leela start at about $300 Can but an Australian couple told me that the rooms they looked at were simply breathtaking and included floor to ceiling windows with sea views, chocolates and all the mod-cons you could desire. It is completely acceptable to go up for a 3-cup pot of tea or coffee (which I do once or twice a week - $3.00 with a generous tip) or a meal (not a bargain at about $20 but the food is VERY good and the pastries are the best I've ever eaten in India). A drink at sunset is also a possibility – something Martha and I did the other day. She had a gin and tonic ($4.50) and I had a small (330 ml) Kingfisher beer (same price). It was a painterly sunset and we both enjoyed ourselves very much.
The final thing I'll say about the Leela is that the staff are friendly and genuine without being obsequious. If you are planning a trip to Kerala and can afford it the Leela would make a great one or two night treat for the end of your visit. If not – just do like I do, wander up for a meal or a drink and pretend that you're rich enough to stay.
As a non-guest I don't have access to what are probably some of the hotels best features – apparently there are two other swimming pools in addition to the infinity pool that adjoins The Terrace restaurant (below).
And while up at the Leela for tea the other day with a newly made Brit friend (Martha) we looked down enviously at a massive outdoor seating area with candles, huge clay pots (probably at least 5 feet tall) filled with greenery and comfy couches that I hadn't realized was there. This outdoor area is the dining and drinking area for the club rooms shown in the far left of the previous picture.
This picture shows the view to the north from the terrace.
What makes the Leela extra special is the beautiful décor and construction of the building and the uniquely Kerala touches. Mosaics are found on the floor of The Terrace and the lobby.
A carved wall plaque (not sure if it is wood or stone) features birds and flowers.
The lobby is light and airy with a stunning flower arrangement that changes daily.
The vast iron pots in the sunken seating areas are full of rose petals and art with exuberant colours decorates the walls.
I think this painting of a Kathikali dancer is just magnificent.
And just to prove that I've actually been inside here's me in what is probably an antique mirror.
Elephants are everywhere both inside and out.
A lovely Ganesh has pride of place to the right of the main door.
Rooms at the Leela start at about $300 Can but an Australian couple told me that the rooms they looked at were simply breathtaking and included floor to ceiling windows with sea views, chocolates and all the mod-cons you could desire. It is completely acceptable to go up for a 3-cup pot of tea or coffee (which I do once or twice a week - $3.00 with a generous tip) or a meal (not a bargain at about $20 but the food is VERY good and the pastries are the best I've ever eaten in India). A drink at sunset is also a possibility – something Martha and I did the other day. She had a gin and tonic ($4.50) and I had a small (330 ml) Kingfisher beer (same price). It was a painterly sunset and we both enjoyed ourselves very much.
The final thing I'll say about the Leela is that the staff are friendly and genuine without being obsequious. If you are planning a trip to Kerala and can afford it the Leela would make a great one or two night treat for the end of your visit. If not – just do like I do, wander up for a meal or a drink and pretend that you're rich enough to stay.
Flowers of Kovalam
Kerala is known for its myriad shades of green but its flowers are also quite lovely. Since I know about as much about flowers as I do about Malayalam (the palindromic English name given to the language of the Kerala people) I present these photos without caption for your enjoyment. If you know what they are please feel free to email me their names.
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