Kerala Bound

Kerala is one of the smallest states in India having an area of about 38,855 sq km (1.3% of India's total). For comparison - Vancouver Island is about 17% smaller than Kerala at 32,134 sq km and has about 2% of the population (Kerala has almost as many people as Canada at 31.8 million). Kerala has 590 km of coastline versus 3,440 km for Vancouver Island

Kerala is well known outside of India not just for its tourism but for its high scores in terms of human development - almost 100% literacy, small families and life expectancies approaching Western figures. But today's Kerala is also plagued with many of the problems we associate with the West - rapidly rising incidence of heart disease and diabetes, high rates of domestic violence and divorce and - perhaps most disturbingly - one of the highest rates of suicide in the world (South India: World's Suicide Capital).

But of course little of this is of concern to the thousands of tourists that flock there every year. A significant number will go no further than Kovalam Beach, a resort 'discovered' by hippies in the 70s that now accommodates weekly influxes of charter tourists from England and Scandinavia during the season (basically November through March).

I first went to Kovalam in 1991 and though it has changed dramatically I think it still is a great place to visit. My experience this time will be very different since I am going to be there during the off-season and will be able to enjoy the dramatic storms of the monsoon and have a very peaceful time as one of the few tourists still in residence.

I will be staying at the Marina Kovalam (see below) which is managed by my good friend Joy David who I met on my first trip to India in 1991. As well as managing this small guesthouse Joy runs his own bookstore so I'll have plenty to read when I get tired of navel gazing (which should take about 3 days I think :) ).

Kovalam Beach and Area Guide

If you're interested in finding out a little bit more about Kovalam Beach and the surrounding area you might want to consider buying 'Welcome to Paradise' a short, inexpensive (65 Rs) guidebook written by Susan Z. Martin. The guide is perfect for any traveler who wants to undertake day trips from Kovalam Beach but finds the traditional guides short on detailed, up-to-date information. It is for sale at Ancy's Book Store on Light House Beach (just behind Velvet Dawn restaurant). If you'd like to know more about the guide kovalamguide@yahoo.ca

New Year, New Name

Simi Cottages has become the Marina Kovalam. I've just moved in today (January 4, 2007) and must say that my room is very pleasant. Cold water shower only but it has been so hot here I don't think I'll mind. The room is large, clean and bright. No ocean view but some of the rooms on the top floor have that (and hot water).

You can email to inquire about rooms or call 91-471-6418618. If you are coming by taxi or autorickshaw ask to be dropped off at Lighthouse Beach - this way you won't have to walk all the way along the beachfront from the other end of the beach (Hawa Beach) where the bus stand is. If you're coming by bus I think it's best to get off at the bus stand - you could get off at the head of Lighthouse Beach road but it would probably be a longer walk. Here is a shot of the outside of Marina Kovalam so you can recognize it (it's next to Hotel Sea View Palace).

Simi Cottages

Simi Cottages has undergone a major renovation and just like the beach the hotel has changed too. There is now a second floor (or first floor for all you sensible Europeans) and all rooms have western toilets and televisions. Apparently those on the 2nd floor have hot water showers (on the ground floor have only cold). Prices range from 500 - 650 Rs on the ground floor and from 950 Rs on the first floor. I'll write more of my impressions of the place after I stay there at Christmas. For now here are a couple of photos.

Kovalam Beach - not as I remember it

I haven't yet gotten to Kovalam Beach (the plan is to arrive on Christmas Eve - coming from Delhi on the Kerala Express train, just 52 hours!) but from the photos Joy has sent me it looks as if the beach has changed pretty drastically since I was there last (1993 I think).

What used to be sea shore has been built up tremendously. I will have to wait and see if the ambience remains the same.

Thank you to Marianne and the Umea Library!

Joy would like to thank Marianne and her friends at the Umea Library for the much appreciated Christmas gift that allowed him to pay back the loan he took to get Ancy's Book Stall started.

Marianne is a journalist and dear friend of Joy's. They first met when she was working on her book Vilse i Kerala and later Marianne interviewed Joy for an article posted on the Umea library's intranet. The article sparked the interest of the librarians at the library and they decided to donate funds to pay back Joy's loan.

Joy and Marianne outside Ancy's

Inside Ancy's Joy receives the gift from Marianne

Welcome to Kovalam

Kovalam Beach (or simply Kovalam) is the name of the lovely beach area south of Trivandrum (or Thiruvananthapuram as it is now called) in Kerala. You can reach Kovalam by bus, rickshaw or share taxi from Trivandrum - the ride is only about 20-30 minutes in length.

Once you arrive at the bus stand you descend on foot to the level of the beach and you enter another world. Leave your cares at the top of the hill and enjoy yourself. Swim (but with care - the undertow can be dangerous), eat, drink, make new friends, read and relax. The photo is - probably pretty obviously - of Lighthouse Beach.

On Lighthouse Beach you will find Simi Cottages (now called Marina Kovalam) and nearby is Ancy's Book Stall run by Joy David. At Ancy's you're sure to find something to satisfy your reading cravings. Make sure and tell Joy that you read about Ancy's here.