Kerala is one of the smallest states in India having an area of about 38,855 sq km (1.3% of India's total). For comparison - Vancouver Island is about 17% smaller than Kerala at 32,134 sq km and has about 2% of the population (Kerala has almost as many people as Canada at 31.8 million). Kerala has 590 km of coastline versus 3,440 km for Vancouver Island
Kerala is well known outside of India not just for its tourism but for its high scores in terms of human development - almost 100% literacy, small families and life expectancies approaching Western figures. But today's Kerala is also plagued with many of the problems we associate with the West - rapidly rising incidence of heart disease and diabetes, high rates of domestic violence and divorce and - perhaps most disturbingly - one of the highest rates of suicide in the world (South India: World's Suicide Capital).
But of course little of this is of concern to the thousands of tourists that flock there every year. A significant number will go no further than Kovalam Beach, a resort 'discovered' by hippies in the 70s that now accommodates weekly influxes of charter tourists from England and Scandinavia during the season (basically November through March).
I first went to Kovalam in 1991 and though it has changed dramatically I think it still is a great place to visit. My experience this time will be very different since I am going to be there during the off-season and will be able to enjoy the dramatic storms of the monsoon and have a very peaceful time as one of the few tourists still in residence.
I will be staying at the Marina Kovalam (see below) which is managed by my good friend Joy David who I met on my first trip to India in 1991. As well as managing this small guesthouse Joy runs his own bookstore so I'll have plenty to read when I get tired of navel gazing (which should take about 3 days I think :) ).
