The Leela Kempinski Kovalam Beach is simply a gorgeous hotel. When I came here in the 90s this property on the headlands between two beaches (be sure to check out the Leela's website to see aerial photos that I obviously am unable to get without a helicopter!) was home to a dumpy, Kerala State Tourism hotel where you had to go to change travelers' cheques. Then for a short while it was a Le Meridien. I'm not sure when the Leela group took it over but it is nothing short of spectacular now.
As a non-guest I don't have access to what are probably some of the hotels best features – apparently there are two other swimming pools in addition to the infinity pool that adjoins The Terrace restaurant (below).
And while up at the Leela for tea the other day with a newly made Brit friend (Martha) we looked down enviously at a massive outdoor seating area with candles, huge clay pots (probably at least 5 feet tall) filled with greenery and comfy couches that I hadn't realized was there. This outdoor area is the dining and drinking area for the club rooms shown in the far left of the previous picture.
This picture shows the view to the north from the terrace.
What makes the Leela extra special is the beautiful décor and construction of the building and the uniquely Kerala touches. Mosaics are found on the floor of The Terrace and the lobby.
A carved wall plaque (not sure if it is wood or stone) features birds and flowers.
The lobby is light and airy with a stunning flower arrangement that changes daily.
The vast iron pots in the sunken seating areas are full of rose petals and art with exuberant colours decorates the walls.
I think this painting of a Kathikali dancer is just magnificent.
And just to prove that I've actually been inside here's me in what is probably an antique mirror.
Elephants are everywhere both inside and out.
A lovely Ganesh has pride of place to the right of the main door.
Rooms at the Leela start at about $300 Can but an Australian couple told me that the rooms they looked at were simply breathtaking and included floor to ceiling windows with sea views, chocolates and all the mod-cons you could desire. It is completely acceptable to go up for a 3-cup pot of tea or coffee (which I do once or twice a week - $3.00 with a generous tip) or a meal (not a bargain at about $20 but the food is VERY good and the pastries are the best I've ever eaten in India). A drink at sunset is also a possibility – something Martha and I did the other day. She had a gin and tonic ($4.50) and I had a small (330 ml) Kingfisher beer (same price). It was a painterly sunset and we both enjoyed ourselves very much.
The final thing I'll say about the Leela is that the staff are friendly and genuine without being obsequious. If you are planning a trip to Kerala and can afford it the Leela would make a great one or two night treat for the end of your visit. If not – just do like I do, wander up for a meal or a drink and pretend that you're rich enough to stay.